ESSAOUIRA: L’ANTIGA MOGADOR SOMRIU ALS VISITANTS/ THE ANCIENT MOGADOR SMILES AT ITS VISITORS

Les barques del port constitueixen una de les imatges típiques de la població.

Situada a la costa atlàntica marroquina i com fa temps van fer els portuguesos, Essaouira és conquerida cada any. No obstant, l'esperit dels actuals visitants, en gran part francesos,  és molt diferent als d’abans,   i aquests arriben disposats a passar uns dies relaxats, després d’una probable arribada des de l’aclaparament de Marràqueix. És molt necessari ,després d’haver visitat altres llocs,  quedar-s’hi uns dies, gaudint de la tranquilitat que desprenen la població i els seus habitants.

Malgrat trobar-se al sud de la costa atlàntica del país, no és l’antiga Mogador un lloc adient pel turisme de sol i platja. Aquí els vents atlàntics no donen treva i probablement colpejaran sense pietat al turista desinformat, fent necessària  una jaqueta  fins i tot als vespres de ple estiu.  En canvi,  aquesta població és el paradís pels amants de l’onatge i les taules de surf.


Located in the south Athlantic ocean and such as Portugal did some time ago, Essaouire is again conquered by its visitors over the years. However, currently, a new sperit is prevailing among these "new conquers"; a very different goal is in their mind  than the "old conquers" had inside their heads, specially for french people, who, nowadays, spend their holidays in Essaouire just to rest and enjoy its advantatges. Besides, probably, most of these " new conquers" come from Marraquesh which would be the flip side of the coin if we compare the 2 mentioned cities.
After being in some other stressful cities of Morocco, could be an excellent idea to spend some days in Essaouire, such a peaceful and lovely village!!!
Although it is located in the South of the Athlantic coast, it is not a  beach where tourists  can lay back , so not a good place to sunbathe at all. This fact is due to the Athlantic winds which punishes the village quite oftenly. Even a jacket is needed sometimes in summer. So, now, you know what include in your suitcase!! However, there is always a positive side in everything: surfists will love the waves that this ocean offers to these people keen on surfing.

Una bona definició d’Essaouira seria la d’una ciutat bohèmia i amable amb el visitant. No es veuran dintre de  la seva destartalada medina grans aglomeracions de gent, ni botiguers disposats a aclaparar al turista. Aquí seran els turistes els que preguntaran als comerciants.   Les imponents muralles guarden en el seu interior gran quantitat de carrerons, que porten a algun punt proper al mar  on els joves del poble toquen la guitarra sense esperar  cap moneda  com a agraiment. Aquí, a la muralla i a tocar del mar, els canons ens recorden el passat convuls de la població. Des d’aquí es poden observar també les aus,  que esperen pacientment poder aprofitar les restes orgàniques del mercat.

If we look for some adjective that defines Essaouire, we could propose "bohemian". This  village remains the moroccan look, but always with an inner Bohemian new style. This kind village is so easy to love that makes its visitors fall in love.nce Inside the cramped Medina, we won't see any conglomeration or jam, then, it really worths to be strolling inside just enjoying its alleys and shops. For sure, you wont suffer any " harassment" or "persecution" from the sellers such as can happen in some other moroccan cities like Marraquesh. The imposing walls keep sheltered  all the streets and alleys of Essaouire which most of the, fall into some place close to the ocean where often is plenty of young people playing the guitar, just for fun and without expecting any coin in exchange! In this very area wee notice the imposing canyons that make us remember some part of the history that never must be forgotten. 
All in all, the village is not rich in spite the big amount of tourits they have every year. The fish market and the way how locals live make us realize that they live very poorly. Obviously, it has nothing to do with the way tourist live once they are spending their vacations, but it is necessary to highlight that Essaouire is no a rich village at all but rather another moroccan village. The scenary we see in the fish market with cats and seagulls eating the rubbish gives veracity to my words! :)

Un dels espectacles de la població es veure cada matí el mercat del peix.  Al costat del port,  i sota unes condicions higièniques que a Europa no passarien cap control sanitari,  els turistes miren i els autòctons compren. Segurament no hi haurà compra més absurda per a un turista que peix fresc acabat de pescar. Millor tornar  cap a l’interior de la Medina i aquí sí poder gaudir de peix acabat de cuinar i bé de preu. Però no nomès de peix fresc viu el comerciant, també es trobaran moltes parades de dolços típics marroquins, que faran contents als més llaminers.

Such as I just mentioned above, the fish market in the dock can be considered as the main " real show" to see in this lovely area. A lot of fish is sold everyday and it is quite interesting to see the hub of the activity from very early in the morning till midday. I should remark that this fish, unfortuntely, would not pass any health assessment in Europe, so be careful if you are intended to buy some!! Then, we see how this daily activity is the main touristic picture for tourists around the world apart from locals, of course.
If we go back to the Medina, once we saw the market scenary, we can eat some fried fresh fish at a really good price although I do not know if it would be more advisable first to eat the fish inside the medina, and secondly, go to the dock! But do not suffer: this fried fish will satisfy both your stomach and taste. It is delicious!!!

Bust d'Orson Welles

Fora dels límits de la Medina, i a tocar del port s'erigeix el bust en honor a Orson Welles. Probablement, pocs personatges han fet tant per la difusió d'Essaouira, ja que els carrers de la ciutat van quedar immortalitzats durant la filmació de la seva "Othelo". Incomprensiblement però, l'estat de conservació del monument a la seva memòria és lamentable.

Out of the Medina boundaries and close to the sea, there is a remarkable statue to see. Better said, it is a bust of Orson Welles who is probably one of the most important characters along the hystory that took Essaouire as the main scenary and background for his known and famous movie: Othello. Unfortunately, its  conservation status is pretty regrettable.

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ELS CAFÈS DE MARROC O COM L’ESPORT NACIONAL NO ES PRACTICA AMB UNA PILOTA/ MOROCCAN COFFEES OR HOW THE NATIONAL SPORT IS NOT PRACTISED BY USING A BALL

Unes petites reflexions sobre l’esport nacional del Marroc. No, no em refereixo al futbol, que molts habitants del regne alauita segueixen amb molta més passió que nosaltres, ni em refereixo a res que impliqui córrer i suar. L’esport nacional del país és seure a alguna terrassa, passar l’estona i prendre’s un cafè o té.

Això és una bona opció pels cafeters de mena, que sens dubte trobaran al país milers de cafès, molts inspirats en els típics cafès parisencs, on seure’s a parlar, reflexionar o senzillament observar el que passa uns metres més enllà.  Cal dir però que la pràctica d’aquest esport, sembla només reservada a persones del sexe masculí.

Tota visita al país hauria d’incloure unes hores d’estada en alguns d’aquests locals,  per omplir els sentits de tot el que la vida cotidiana marroquina ens pot oferir: els caos del trànsit, els taxis sobrecarregats de passatgers, els milers de buscavides que intenten oferir els seus serveis per uns pocs dirhams...

En aquest sentit, per tot el país  trobem gran varietat i quantitat de cafès. Pel mòdic preu d’un cafè amb llet o un té, no hauria de costar més d’uns 10 dirhams, assistirem un espectacle que de ben segur no ens deixarà indiferent, i tindrem gravat per sempre en el nostre calaix de les memòries dels viatges.

Just a few insides about the national sport in Morocco. And no, I am not talking about football, although   there are lots of followers in the Alouite kingdom as well. I am not talking about anything that has to do with sweeting or running either. The national sport is all about getting a chair in a terrace and take some tea or coffee, spending the time without any other purpose than that.
This is a good choice for coffee lovers who will not have any problem to find coffee terraces which are clearly inspired by parisian café places. Without hesitating at all, I assure that moroccan people love chatting and share their daily experiences with their friends, or  better said, with their male friends. Notice that only men are" playing the national sport"   in terraces... 
But as a tourist i must say it is really advisable to sit down in this coffee places and then pay atention the  way how they life and life in the streets: traffic jams, passenger overload taxis,thousands of go-getters in the streets...